The Slippery Slope to Prime Meat: Skirt Steak with Chimichurri

Park Slope, where I hang my hat, is a rapidly gentrifying neighborhood; the kind where there’s a steady stream of boutiques opening where yesterday’s bodega used to be. I like to window shop, because everything’s beautiful, but it’s definitely an “if you have to ask you cant afford it” type of neighborhood. I tend to limit my local shopping to the grocery variety.

So this week, I was taking my dog for an early morning walk, and found myself near a posh grocery store. They were roasting chicken with rosemary -- even Kayla's nose started to tweak. I was hungry. I needed meat.

I walked to the meat guy, and spied a nice piece of skirt steak. It's my go-to; always dependably tasty, and usually around $6 per pound. Unfortunately, this USDA prime meat had it’s price tag obscured, so I had to engage in the humiliating Park Slope game of ask the price from the snooty salesperson.

I could see it was more than one-digit a pound, so I figured 10, 11 tops. “That’s $14 a pound mam.” I looked at the meat man-child incredulously. “$14!!?” I asked/exclaimed. “It’s Prime meat, ma’am.”

I looked at him. He was pulling tone. I was in a grocery store at 8AM, and not going to let him get away with making me feel like a moron for what, quite clearly, was price gouging. “I understand it’s prime meat. I don’t need prime, this is a cheap cut and we both know that.”

“Well you can go to Key Food or Associated, if that’s how you shop.” Big dig.

I may not have enough money to shop here, but I sure can have an opinion, “They have wonderful butchers, but typically select. I want choice. Can I order it from you?”

“We’re prime only.”

I thanked him for his time and did a lap around the store. This was ridiculous. The same meat at Fairway (that’s right, prime), was $4.99 just last week. Argh.

He motioned me over. “Listen lady, you seem like you really want this steak. I’m not going to argue with you about it. How much you want?”

“But I, I…I don’t have my wallet, and I only have $20 on me”

“How much you want?”

“3 pounds?” I said, sheepishly.

He measured out my gorgeous, marbled skirt steak and slapped on a sticker indicating that this was chopped meat at $5.99 per pound.

When asked, I always encourage my cooking students to develop relationships with their food purveyors; and this is exactly why. Your fish guy, meat guy, and Italian specialty guy want to deal with someone who appreciates what they do. Everyone, from children to grocery stores, likes to test the limits. And the only thing that trumps getting your way is finding a worthy opponent who raises your game.

On this night, I had my steak and ate it to. Thank you, Fernando. I’ll be back soon.

Skirt Steak with Chimichurri Sauce
Serves 4

1 ¼ cups fresh Italian parsley (packed)
1 cup cilantro leaves (packed)
2 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
1/2 cup olive oil
1/3 cup red wine vinegar
1/4 to ½-teaspoon dried crushed red pepper
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 pounds boneless hanger, skirt, or rib-eye steaks, about 1/3-inch thick

1. To make the chimichurri: In the bowl of a food processor, combine parsley, cilantro, and garlic and chop. Place chopped parsley mixture in a bowl and whisk in 1/2 cup olive oil, lemon juice, garlic and crushed red pepper. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Refrigerate at least 4 hours. (Can be made 1 day ahead.) Bring to room temperature before using.
2. Heat a large cast iron skillet over medium-high heat until very hot (smoke will rise from the surface of the skillet). Sprinkle the steaks with salt and pepper and add them to the skillet. Cook for 3 minutes without turning. Then sear on the other side for 3 minutes. Allow the steak to sit for 5 minutes before cutting into slices on the bias. Serve the steak slices drizzled with the chimichurri sauce.


PS. Days later I popped by the store to pick up a little Gruyere for French Onion Soup. The cashier rang up my purchase, but for some reason, the cheese rang up as $0.00. I couldn't do it again; I had to let her know. Honesty; it's what you make of it. :-)

Valentine's Day with The One Who Loves Me: Berries and Cream

Happy Valentine's Day, dear reader!

We have shared three V-Days. They were some very poignant times, but ooh boy am I glad to have fallen down, brushed off, and carried on. For me, Valentine's Day marks the end of a Bermuda triangle of romantic expectations starting with Thanksgiving, moving into Xmas/Chanukah, hitting it's peak on New Years, and resolved by Valentine's Day. A pentagon of prospects, possibilities, and (let's face it) presumption.

I know you know what I'm talking about.

If you're in any sort of relationship, and can navigate around these cairns unscathed, then tell me how it's done. I have a tendency to drive the car straight into the lamp post, and can file these wrecks under "learning experiences". There was the "I love you now it's over" break-up with JChef in 2006, the admission of my Valentine's Day card and chocolate pudding habit in 2007, and the final "ain't that horse dead yet?" JChef break up of 2008. At least there's a link to a really awesome NPR break-up piece at the bottom, and foreshadowing of good things to come with Andrew, AKA Kidalicious, who recently bowed out of the race and resumed friend status. Kid, we were all rooting for you; why'd you forfeit the game?

Someday I'd like to make a relationship board game and when I do, these holidays will have the significance of Boardwalk and Park Place stacked with 5 hotels. It would be combined with the prophecy of a Magic-8 ball letting you know if it really was a good decision to have sex that soon...and a telling physical component like Twister (after you've been dating for a year, and doesn't ask you to his brother's wedding...do you still think he wants a relationship? Yes? Then stand on your right food, put your left foot behind your head, close your eyes and hop across the room while holding a martini. If you can do it without spilling, stay in the relationship, dufus).

Hell, people. What doesn't kill you make you stronger. But don't mistake my sarcasm for bitterness: I still believe. Yes we can. It's all different now.

Which is precisely why this year, I had a little Valentine's week hang with that person who will always love me, deeper and more unconditionally than any other. That's right people, I did a Valentine's love-in with momma. She visited for a week of winter love, the kind where you snuggle up on the couch, watch movies, and wonder exactly when the senility will start (see, moms let you make those kinds of jokes and *still* get you a birthday present).

And because I was feeling all romantic for the coming V-Day, I made special meals for mom where she could dine on aphrodisiacs like mussels and artichokes, and then call my Dad and coo sweet things to him. Awww...

But the real treat of the weekend was the classic Valentine's indulgence: Strawberries and Whipped Cream. That's right people, I pulled out all my kitchen stops to seduce my mother. Because after champagne, and a full meal, why shove down another 750 calories of chocolate when you can enjoy a nice fruit dessert?

Because everyone's looking for those stemmed strawberries (the fruit equivalent of a long stemmed rose), you can find good grocery store value. And thanks to our global economy, they're sweet as all get-out, red to the core; a perfect companion to hand-beaten whipped cream. For the cream, select some top quality organic heavy or whipping cream, pick up your whisk and go to town. But pass on the sugar. By doing so, you get to enjoy the berries natural sweetness unencumbered by cloying sugar. This actually makes the strawberries taste sweeter.

Let's carry that metaphor to the end: On Valentine's Day, don't cover up the natural sweetness with an overly sweet companion (mediocre $150 prix fixe dinner, anyone?). Step aside, look for the all-natural organic love, and enjoy it's deliciousness.

Cook Yourself Thin Dinner Party: Friends & Flavor

Ach! I've been remiss in my blogging, again. I'm sorry, and I thank you for sticking with me. Good news is -- I'm planning some innovations, and have my best people taking endless classes at the Mac store to that end.

Now you and I might be words people at heart, but let's admit it, no words can replace the sounds of sizzle, or the image of chocolate icing dripping down the sides of a cake. Soon, I'll be adding pictures, sound and video...I promise.

In addition, I have some news. I am co-hosting the upcoming Cook Yourself Thin, which will be appearing on Lifetime in May. It's the US version of a UK show where a couple of food-loving gals demonstrate kitchen techniques and recipes to women who are interested in dropping a dress size while preparing the home-cooked foods they love. My co-hosts are the lovely Harry Eastwood and Candice Kumai. Harry and Candice are wonderful women who have become fast friends; in addition to working together long hours, we've been playing together too.

When our shoot wrapped, Harry invited Candice and me over for a relaxed dinner at her apartment. Keep in mind that we spend all day together cooking in a kitchen, so to the untrained eye, this could seem like a busman's holiday. But in truth, we're just women who like to cook, so when we found ourselves in a kitchen together without worrying about camera angles and makeup, we played!

And at this dinner, the food behaved beautifully. It took center stage for a bit, while we ooohed and aaahed over it's simple deliciousness, then retreated graciously while enjoyed the best part of a dinner party, one another.

On Harry's Menu:
Steamed Globe Artichokes with a Swiss Vinaigrette
Skate with Beurre Noisette
Fennel and Sea Bean Salad with Basil and Tarragon
Cheese and Chocolate

Artichokes with Vinaigrette:
Harry plonked the artichokes in water for about 30 to 45 minutes, until the stems could be pierced with the tip of a paring knife, and the leaves pulled easily. To accompany, she made a strong (acidic, flavorful) emulsified vinaigrette with cider vinegar, Djion, olive oil, and generous amounts of salt and pepper. I'm used to drawn butter or mayo with my chokes, so this perky partner was a happy new find for me.

Skate with Beurre Noisette:
The great news here is that Americans still consider skate restaurant food, so for those of us willing to give it a try, we're rewarded with a competitive price -- Harry said the 3 skate wings, deboned, cost her less than $7 total. She sauteed them, them popped them under the broiler to reheat. To go along with, she made a lovely brown butter sauce.

Fennel and Sea Bean Salad with Basil and Tarragon:
Now this is where simple home cooking starts to get me very excited. By using an ingredient like sea beans, Harry made a relatively simple salad seem exotic. She blanched the beans, and partnered it with thinly sliced fennel, which she soaked in ice water, to take some of the bite out. She combined the two veg (which look tangled and sexy on a plate together), and tossed them in a wonderfully herby vinaigrette. In the US, we often use herbs the way we use spices...in a very small amount. Harry uses a generous hand with her herbs so that we enjoyed vivid flavor with minimal kitchen fuss. Outside of a restaurant, I've not used sea beans in my cooking. Thanks so a little kitchen inspiration from Harry, this will be remedied pronto.

Cheese and Chocolate:
The ultimate low fuss (and satisfying) dessert. Yes you can!