Tuesday, January 23, 2007

Miami Heat Gets Out of the Kitchen: Grilled Fish Tacos

Last week, television travels took me to Miami. I’m getting better at traveling now; I have smaller bottles of shampoo, I travel with Netflix and I bring music. I’m even tossing a few scented candles in the sack to give it all a home away from home feel. That said, I still like to give myself up to the culture of the city, and see what it has to teach me.

As soon as I got to the hotel, I found my travel pal Ninotchka, and we agreed that the rooms had a distinctly sex vibe. Not sexy mind you, just sex. There were black and white photos of body parts, and the place looked as if it was cleaned with a hose. My brain took me for a tilt-a-whirl ride when I learned that mattresses double their weight every ten years thanks to the absorption and retention of dust mites and such. Ick.

Our courtyard was pleasantly provocative, with tables and chairs, inviting beds (!), gauzy white canopies and tall plants. But this bed-centric design was not unique to our hotel; it was everywhere in Miami clubs, hotels and restaurants. The place had evolved from Deco to Bordello.

I was here for 10 days and determined to make it work. Sure, there were some loud pool parties when we got home from the shoot, and heck, I even tried to instigate some fun myself with a little late night pool hopping. T’was Miami after all; if you’re having business meetings in your bikini and drinks at the Delano, might as well play by different rules.

Everything rolled just this side of appropriate until our second to last day. When we returned to the courtyard, there was a party attended by lots of well-dressed women in their 40s and 50s; oddly wearing platform stilettos, the kind favored by strippers. The men of the group had big smiles, shaved heads, and were constantly clicking their cameras.

It was a friendly group, eager to have us join them for a drink, but the free drinks at the bar were also beckoning. So much free booze; and only one little me.

I went to my room, changed, and when I walked out, was greeted by four ample breasts and a man eagerly clicking away. Needing a drink more than ever, I navigated my way through the courtyard which had been transformed into some sort of a naked playhouse; women were hanging from the canopies and men were snapping away.

I found my way to the clothing not-optional bar, and had a stiff drink. My colleagues gathered, all having made it through the same labyrinth. As it turned out; we weren’t the only ones on business. This group was having a national event for a voyeuristic web site, doing what they do best; taking it off and snapping what remained.

It was a bit much after a day of making quick meals for tots; after several (dozen) sangrias, my colleagues and I decided to join the party. We kept our clothes on, but used the opportunity to learn more about a group I heretofore knew little about. And so I present to you:

TEN THINGS I LEARNED ABOUT VOYEURS IN MIAMI:


10. No one uses their real name.
9. You wear bands on your wrists to indicate whether or not you want photos taken.
8. Voyeurs are eager to recruit, but back off quickly.
7. Voyeurs are some of the friendliest folk I met in Miami.
6. When the clothes are on, voyeur men are rather preppy.
5. The over-50 woman can have an incredible body.
4. Positive body image goes a long way to making a traditionally not-attractive person sexy.
3. Having a voyeur party in a largely Hasidic neighborhood works for everyone; some of these men were born to lurk.
2. After these parties, just say no to the workout room. You don’t want to know where that mirror has been.
1. Nothing good happens after 2AM.

Though it took me a few deep breaths to come to terms with all the flesh, I got used to it. As long as folks are respectful of other’s limits and boundaries, these two groups (those who watch, and those who like to be watched) have found each other, and god bless ‘em. Not exactly my cup of tea, but then again, not everyone likes lamb tagine, so who am I to judge?

Back to the day job, I was helping families make quick dinners on the grill. Grilled fish tends to be most people’s bugaboo, as it tends to flake, stick and fall apart. I came up with a neat idea for transforming the grill into a griddle so that homemakers can enjoy “grilling” tilapia. Because in Miami, if you can’t stand the heat…

Fish Tacos with Corn Salsa and Chipotle Sour Cream
By Allison Fishman

For Fish Tacos:
4 (4 or 5-ounce) tilapia fillets
1 1/4 cups Pepper-Lime Marinade (recipe below)
16 corn tortillas
Chipotle Sour Cream (recipe below)
1 small head romaine lettuce, shredded
Corn Salsa (recipe below)

Special Equipment:
Heavy-duty aluminum foil

Place fish in a resealable plastic bag, and pour marinade over the fish. Push all the air out of the bag and seal, turning the fish in the marinade to coat. Let sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes.
Heat an outdoor grill to medium-high. Coat a 12 x 16-inch piece of aluminum foil with nonstick spray and place, coated side up, on the grill. Place fish on foil and cook with the grill cover down, turning once, until completely opaque, about 6 to 8 minutes total. Remove fish from the grill and slice into 1-inch strips.
During the last 2 to 3 minutes of cooking, place the corn tortillas on a cooler part of the grill, to warm.
To assemble a fish taco, layer two warm tortillas on a napkin or paper towel in your hand, overlapping about 2 inches. Spread about 2 teaspoons of chipotle sour cream on the tortillas, add a few tilapia pieces, sprinkle with romaine lettuce leaves, and top with 1 to 2 tablespoons of corn salsa. Eat out of hand, and enjoy!


Makes 8 fish tacos; serves 4 to 6

Pepper-Lime Marinade
By Allison Fishman

2 limes, juice and zest of 1 lime
1 lemon
1 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves
1 garlic clove, chopped
3/4 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
1 teaspoon kosher salt

In a medium bowl, combine lime juice and lemon juice (you should have about 1/2 cup), and the zest of 1 lime (about 1 tablespoon). Whisk in olive oil; add cilantro, garlic, black pepper and salt. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.


Corn Salsa
By Allison Fishman

2 large ears of fresh corn
3/4 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
2 scallion greens, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons Pepper-Lime Marinade (recipe above), or any other citrus dressing you like
Salt and pepper, to taste

Shuck corn, and remove kernels by standing ears tall, on a flat surface, and using the blade of a chefs knife to strip the kernels from the corn.
Place corn kernels in a medium bowl with tomatoes and scallion greens. Drizzle 2 tablespoons marinate on top, and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper; cover, and refrigerate until ready to serve.


Chipotle Sour Cream
By Allison Fishman

1 cup sour cream
1 chipotle, chopped
1 tablespoon chipotle sauce

In a small bowl, combine sour cream, chipotle and sauce. Refrigerate, covered, until ready to serve.

Saturday, January 13, 2007

Home Made Simple Season 2: Paella on the Grill

I'll interrupt my usual format to bring you a commercial message.

As most of you know, I've been filming a TV show called Home Made Simple. It starts tomorrow, Sunday November 14th, at 1PM on TLC (in NY, that's channel 52).

In the new season, I am joined by designer, Nadia Geller and contractor, Patrick Brown to help homeowners beautify, simplify and organize their homes. We start in Washington, travel down to Charleston, hit Miami and finally Savannah.

We've worked with families whose personality, style and passion can only speak for themselves. I've been traveling this country and found myself dancing, singing, holding babies and painting walls. Oh, and in the meantime, I get to do a little cooking (from paella to roasted chicken to Frogmore stew and fried eggs), and share a few kitchen tips.

But you know me, and that I'm a bit of a sap. It's not so much what I'm teaching or what towns I'm seeing that turn me on; it's these loving, gentle, generous families that are such a hoot to spend time with. I'm still in contact with many of the families (and one special one even came to visit me in NY!), and I just keep pinching myself that I've had the opportunity to travel the country in this role.

Check out the show, and tell me what you think. Tomorrow we'll be making a Paella on the grill (and some Sangria, plus I doctor up a can of tomato soup and make delicious garlic croutons -- turn your nose up at Campbells, food snobs, but you'll be breaking out the cans mid-winter). And in terms of that paella, you can make it at your house on the stovetop; just be sure to stop by Sur La Table for a real paella pan (they start at around $30), or you can make it in a huge skillet.

As always, let me know how it goes!

Paella on the Grill
Serves 6 to 8

2 tablespoons olive oil
4 chicken thighs
4 chicken legs
Salt and pepper
4 pieces chorizo (about 12 ounces), sliced 1/2-inch thick
1 large onion, chopped
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 cups Spanish short-grain rice
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
1/2 teaspoon red chili flakes
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 red pepper, seeded and cut into thin strips
10 cups chicken broth, heated with a pinch of saffron threads
1/2 pound calamari, cleaned, rings sliced and tentacles
1 pound frozen peeled and deveined raw shrimp, defrosted
1/2 pound mussels, scrubbed and debearded
1 cup frozen peas
1 1/2 cups chopped tomatoes
1/2 cup chopped parsley

1. Heat the oil in a paella pan or large skillet over a medium-high heat grill. Season chicken with salt and pepper; add chicken and chorizo into the skillet and brown, about 4 minutes per side. Remove from skillet and let rest on a plate.
2. Add onion and garlic to pan and heat until softened, about 4 minutes. Stir in rice, paprika and chili flakes; cook until fragrant, rice is coated with oil, about 1 minute seconds.
3. Add wine and cook until the pan is almost dry, let it be absorbed by the rice, about 30 seconds. Add broth and use tongs to make sure all rice is submerged. Bring to a simmer over medium heat (turn the grill down or move to a cooler part of the grill), return chicken and chorizo to the pan, close grill top and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, or until rice is about halfway cooked.
4. Tuck calamari, shrimp, and mussels into rice; sprinkle peas and tomatoes on top. Cover grill top again, and cook over medium-low heat until calamari is opaque, mussels have opened and shrimp have turned pink, about 10 minutes more. Taste, season with salt and pepper as needed. Scatter the top with chopped parsley and serve.

Tuesday, January 09, 2007

Holiday Winner #3: Roast Chicken With Whipped White Sweet Potatoes and Roasted Brussels Sprouts (Redux)

The third winning recipe was submitted by a Brooklyn restaurateur, chef and friend of The Wooden Spoon. He prefers to remain anonymous.

Roast Chicken With Whipped White Sweet Potatoes and Roasted Brussels Sprouts

This recipe relies on the best quality chicken but is incredibly simple to prepare and very satisfying. White sweet potatoes are one of my favorite potatoes and I’m not a sweet potatoes fan. They are creamy and not nearly as sweet as regular sweet potatoes; they are readily available Fall and Winter at many groceries or at Jim and Andy’s Produce on Court Street and Warren. This dish will easily feed a family of four hungry folks and can be prepared in about an hour.

For Roast Chicken:
3 lb very good quality chicken (Murray’s or Bell and Evans are preferable)
2 Tablespoons Kosher salt
½ Cup red wine
4 Cups chicken stock (preferably homemade)
2 Sprigs thyme
4 Tablespoon unsalted butter @ room temperature

8 to 24 hours before you plan on cooking your chicken, liberally salt the birds and place breast side up in a shallow baking dish in the refrigerator.

Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Using your fingers, spread three tablespoons room temperature butter all over pre-salted chicken, applying evenly to breasts and legs. Place chicken breast side up on a sheet pan or shallow baking pan and place in the oven. Cook for twenty minutes and turn oven down to 400. Cook another fifteen to twenty minutes until the juices run clear when you manipulate the drumstick.

Pour the fat out of the baking dish, place on the stove top, add wine and let reduce until there is almost nothing left. Add chicken stock, garlic cloves and thyme and reduce by two thirds. Before serving add remaining butter to sauce and season to taste with salt and pepper.

If you want to serve the whole bird, you can now just pop it in the oven for a few minutes to heat it up or you can carve it up and throw it under the broiler to crisp the skin. Serve it in a shallow baking pan or bowl with the pan juices.

For Whipped White Sweet Potatoes:
[Editor's note: imitation is flattering indeed.]
4 white sweet potatoes peeled and quartered
1 Cup heavy cream warmed on the stovetop
4 Tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperature
Kosher salt and white pepper to taste (white pepper optional)

Put potatoes in heavy bottom sauce pot, cover with water and bring to a boil. Continue boiling for about ten minutes or until potatoes are fork tender. Drain potatoes well, put immediately in Cuisinart and turn on, adding hot heavy cream and then butter until well incorporated. Season liberally with salt and a little white pepper if desired. Serve immediately.

For Roasted Brussels Sprouts:
3 Pints small brussell sprouts, bottoms removed and halved
2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 Tablespoon Kosher Salt
3 Sprigs fresh thyme

In a stainless steel bowl, toss the brussell sprouts with the olive oil and the salt and the fresh thyme. Place on a baking sheet and cook in the same oven with the chicken (400-500 degrees is fine) for about twenty minutes until brussel sprouts are tender and beginning to brown around the edges. Serve immediately.

P.S. I know I've been giving NY a bum rap lately, but I have to give a big shout out to Wes Autry, who is doing it right. I'm also reading The Pursuit of Happyness, which is not about a NYer, but a real mensch of a man. Just before the Holidays, I stopped a man in the subway who had an enormous roach crawling on his shoulder (he didn't see it, thick coat) and actually flicked it off of him. OK, so one of these things are clearly different from the others, but it was what I had to work with. Look for your opportunity to do good; hopefully it won't involve vermin.