Thursday, September 28, 2006

Vietnamese Food PHOtography

Let's start with breakfast:



Crystal shrimp dumplings (upper right), fresh noodles with pork and a smattering of crispy shallots, and fresh vegetables. Vegetables and fresh herbs are a part of every meal.



Breakfast preparation, 6:30 AM on the streets of Saigon. The big silver pot (back left) is the steaming vessel for the fresh noodle, cooking on top. The batter is crepe-thin, and poured over a finely knit cloth to steam.

On to the floating markets of the Mekong Delta:



A Vietnamese delicacy: duck embryos. These birds are just hatching (can you see the eggs rocking back and forth?). Taken from the shell as they hatch, and cooked immediately. For strength and good health.



These fish were taking from the sea just moments ago. They're flipping and jumping in their respective buckets.

Not for the queasy:



Pig heads and entrails convey the freshness of the head-to toe product.



Keep in mind, this is sitting out, all day, on the banks of the river in tropical heat. Not the most sanitary conditions, but unquestionably fresh.

Catching fish off the coast in Mui Ne:



These small circular boats drive out to larger vessels in deeper waters and ferry the catch to the shore. The ocean is aggressive and the baskets spin as they make their way to shore.



The catch is divided.



And brought to market. The women carrying these baskets weigh less than they carry. They start working as teenagers, and continue into grandmotherhood.

A cooking class at the Sailing Club, in Mui Ne:



Chef Trinh van Trinh offered a private lesson in the court yard, where he shared the ins and outs of Pho Ga (traditional Vietnamese Chicken Noodle Soup), which I've detailed at the end of this post.

Hoi An market:



The limes are small, like key limes, and an entire head of garlic is the size of a golf ball. They produce is sweeter, finer, gentler, and does not as much cooking as American aromatics. In fact, they are often enjoyed raw, or flash-cooked.

Fresh cilantro, mint, and water spinach is eaten daily, after purchasing at local markets that can be found in the smallest of towns. Of course, if the town is small enough, people simply grow or harvest their own herbs.

Deliciuos Bahn mi (Vietnamese sandwich):



Pate, spicy red pepper sauce, fish sauce, roasted pork, and herbs, herbs, herbs are layered on a baguette.

Lunch in Hoi An:



The famous Hoi An noodles, darker in color, can only be made in Hoi An, where the water used to make the dough is taken from a local well. See what I mean about the herbs?

A vendor approaches while during lunch:



To sell a snack for later on. Honey and ginger roasted peanuts baked into a rice cake. That entire platter cost $0.60. If you like to plan dinner while you're eating lunch, this is the place for you.

A vendor selling rambutans on the streets of Hue:



Though for my entire trip we called these lychees, they're not. Lychees have a smooth skin, and rambutans have a rough, prickly skin.

The ubiquitous road side drink stop:



This was near the Japanese covered bridge, a simple cyclo drive from Hue. They line the streets near every tourist destination and the vendors start selling, in a charmingly assertive way, as soon as you arrive.

En route to Halong Bay, we stop for my favorite drink, Lime Water (limbu):



The tiny limes are nestled between long pieces of sugar cane and rolled through this press. Out comes this incredibly, just-sweet lime water, which is combined with crushed ice to make a most refreshing drink. Corn syrup-laden sprite, it's not.

Though the vendors would prefer you to relax, sit on a small plastic stool under a tree and enjoy the drink, they are not opposed to grab and go. They'll pour the drink into a small plastic bag, plunk a straw inside, and wrap it tightly with a rubber band, and charge less for the effort.

On Cat Ba Island, we receive a warm welcome:



And are offered mango, with a cumin sugar-salt for sprinking, and strong green tea



The green tea was way too strong, but ever wanting to please, we were gracious and drank it with clenched-teeth smiles. Until the locals admitted they were just waiting to see what we'd do:



And diluted our drinks so that we could all enjoy a laugh together. They only tease because they love.

A street market in Hanoi. Tucked away in this mess of touristy ($15 per night) hotels in the middle of the city. Could easily have walked right by:



Remember what I said about women running this place?



Head butcher and CEO. It's about 110F in the shade, but still, I'll take this product over any hormone-laden grocery store item back in the states.

A final snack in Hanoi, while checking out the price of hotels. A vendor peels a mango ($0.15):



And walks away, creating my enduring memory of Vietnam:



A seismic shift between ways old and new. Catch it while you can.


Sailing Club Pho
Serves 6

2 small shallots
2 cinnamon sticks
8 cups chicken stock
2 chicken bouillon cubes
6 cups water
1 pound rice noodles, pre-cooked
1 boneless, skinless, chicken breast half (wrapped in plastic wrap to keep moisture in and simmered until cooked through, 10 to 15 minutes), shredded
2 scallions, thinly sliced
1 small onion, very thinly sliced
Cilantro, mint, spinach, lime wedges for garnish
Salt and pepper, as desired

1. Place shallots and cinnamon in a medium pot with 2 cups water. Simmer until 1/2 cup liquid remains; remove and discardshallots and cinnamon. Add chicken stock and bouillon cubes to pot, bring to a simmer.

2. Bring remaining 4 cups water to a simmer. Heat noodles by dunking in the water until warmed through, about 30 seconds. Divide among bowls. Repeat with chicken.

3. Pour hot broth over noodles and chicken, garnish with scallions and onion. Server with a platter of herbs and lime wedges; pass seasonings at the table.

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