Savory Streets: Vietnamese Spring Rolls

One of the more memorable aspects of Vietnam is the street life. It's hot there (especially in the summer), and it's not exactly an air-conditioning type of place. People are sensible; they don't fight the elements, they go with it. They sit outside their homes to take their meals, get their hair cuts, and in Hanoi I saw entire family scrubbing and bathing on the streets; I kid you not.

I've recently moved to an part of Park Slope on the corner of Bourgeois and Bodega. The down-the block stores in which I shop conduct the majority of their business in Spanish, while the new ones springing up are low-rent opportunities for designers to hock their inspired dresses, and earnest parents to shop for brain-friendly kids toys.

One part of my neighb that I'm slowly getting accustomed to is the Brooklyn street life. This consists of groups of middle aged men that congregate all day, hanging out. Not really drinking, or doing anything that resembles work. Just dudes hanging out on the street.

On the one hand, I like the these guys; they know my business. If I disappear one day, and a detective roams around with a photo of my punim, asking for details, these guys are enough in my world that they share some details of my life with Detective Toolate.

On the other hand, these people are a little too in my business. They notice when I've put on an especially nice dress, ask where I'm going on a date, etc. etc. etc. Street life on Vietnam was fine; I was a traveler. But 5th Avenue street life holds me accountable; I've got no departure date.

Right now I'm developing a gazillion recipes for a cookbook. It's a fast-push project; 50 recipes in 3 weeks. And each recipe is enough to serve a family of four. I have a family of 1 (and a half, if you count my dog).

When developing and testing recipes for other companies in the past, much of the food is tossed at the end of the day. When food styling, I've worked on photoshoots where we cook an incredible Thanksgiving feast, then order out for overpriced sandwiches. Doesn't seem right.

But I'm making the rules now, as this is my kitchen. So I've decided to make nice with the locals. I've begun carrying quarts of good-fat soups around to local street men and small shop ownders. I think I made a big hit with the guys from Arecibo, my local car service, when I dropped off a huge bowl of Steamed Mussels and then my Shrimp Boil (or 'Berl', for you southerners). The guy who packs all my parcels for free at the mail place is taking home dinner tonight, as are the folks at the Muslim Apothecary. The hardware store guys really got a kick out of a whole wheat pasta dish, and the vintage store guy has no idea what kind of shellfish deliciousness is coming his way tomorrow.



In Vietnam, I was told not to bother with the restaurants, as the real cooking is on the street. If you roll up to the corner of Bourgeois and Bodega in Park Slope with incredibly good timing, you might just find that the good food is served here too.


Vietnamese Spring Rolls
Serves 6 to 8

2 ounces rice vermicelli, rehydrated according to package directions
12 large shrimp, cooked and halved lengthwise
1 large ripe mango, cut into long, thin matchsticks
2/3 cup fresh bean sprouts
1/2 cup mint leaves
1/2 cup sliced basil leaves
1/2 cup cilantro leaves
12 leaves Boston or red leaf lettuce
12 rice paper wrappers
Peanut Dipping Sauce (keep scrolling)
Nuoc Cham (keep scrolling)

1. Prepare vermicelli, shrimp, mango, bean sprouts, herbs and lettuce leaves, and keep in individual piles or bowls. The easiest way to make spring rolls is with assembly-line style precision, so plan for it. Prepare a skillet of warm water (for softening the wrappers), and dry towel to place in front of each person who will be making rolls. Prepare a platter with a slightly damp paper towel for completed rolls.
2. Lay the wrapper in the water, and remove when softened, about 10 to 20 seconds depending on the heat of the water. Lay one piece of lettuce in the bottom third of the wrapper, and top with noodles, mango, sprouts, herbs and shrimp. Roll, tucking the sides in, burrito style. Place on the plate and cover with the slightly damp towel; fill remaining wrappers.
3. Slice rolls on the bias (in as many pieces as you’d like; a tighter roll allows for smaller, tight pieces), and serve with dipping sauces.



Peanut Sauce
Makes 2/3 cup

1 teaspoon crushed garlic
2 tablespoons crunchy peanut butter
2 tablespoons lower-sodium soy sauce
1 teaspoon honey
1 pinch of chili powder
1/4 coconut milk
Juice of 1 lime, as needed

Place all ingredients in a saucepan, and cook over a moderate heat for 10 minutes(add lime juice if necessary). If you're using one of those hippy no-saturated fat, organic peanut butters (like me), you might need to up the honey. Basically, adjust the sweet, hot, salty and fatty ingredients until it tastes unbelieveable delicious to you.


Nuoc Chom
Makes 2/3 cup

1 garlic clove, crushed
1/2 teaspoon hot chili sauce, or 1 hot red chili pepper
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice or lemon juice
1/4 cup rice vinegar
1/4 cup fish sauce

1. Combine garlic, chile sauce and sugar and a mortar and pound with a pestle; or process in a food processor until chunky. Add lime juice, vinegar, fish sauce and 1/4 cup water. Stir to combine.