Organizing the Kitchen: Crispy Duck Breasts
The Wooden Spoon teaches people how to cook. My instructors and I come to your house, and in 2 1/2 hours, you’re just made a beautiful meal.
But what I’m learning from time spent in your kitchen is that your main question has nothing to do with searing, deep frying, or braising. It’s about food organization. Getting the stuff to come out of the oven hot, and on time.
Let’s take last night’s class as an example. I was working with a young couple to make the following menu:
Gnocchi with Tomatoes and Basil
Crispy Duck with Cremini Mushroom Pan Sauce
Artichoke Potato Gratin
Profiteroles with Chocolate Sauce
This couple was extraordinarily savvy in kitchen concepts (Food TV addicts, 'nuff said), but a little bit less comfortable with the basics of holding a knife. As a newly married set, they had kitchen equipment coming out the wazoo, so the first thing I did was clear 5 major appliances out of the kitchen, so that we’d have room to put cutting boards down. Half the equipment is now on it’s way to Goodwill, and the unopened matzo was definitely on it’s way to a local soup kitchen. An over-equipped kitchen is more of a cooking hindrance than an understocked one.
We cooked, we kvelled, and they had a lovely meal by the time I left. But the most important skill they learned was how to organize this meal for next time.
++ Make the gratin a day or two in advance. Casseroles are built for (and improved by) reheating.
++Profiteroles & chocolate sauce can be made ahead too. In fact, stuff the profiteroles with the ice cream in advance, and leave them in the freezer. Sit them in the fridge for 30 minutes before serving. Or better yet, let your guests stuff the puffs themselves!
++ Gnocchi – make the dumplings and freeze for up to 1 month before serving. I prefer freezing them cut and uncooked; simply drop the frozen guys into pasta water and continue the recipe as described.
++ Make the duck that day. This should take no longer than 1 hour.
Although the format of my 2 1/2 hour cooking classes are an efficient way to learn, they make absolutely no sense if you want to have a dinner party. Like they say about family life: if mama’s happy, everyone’s happy. When the host is calm and satisfied, your guests will be too.
The best way to ensure a happy host is to make dinner about reheating with a little bit of day-of cooking. Never attempt to blitz cook a dinner party, that’s a one-way path to frustration (and sweaty ickyness; trust me, far better to shower, makeup and have a glass of wine before guests arrive).
Crispy Seared Duck Breast with Mushroom-Thyme Sauce
Serves 4
2 (1-pound) boneless duck breasts with skin (preferably Long Island, or Pekin)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 small shallot, chopped
1 8-ounce container cremini mushrooms, sliced
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves, plus sprigs for garnish
1/3 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup good-quality low-sodium chicken stock
1/4 cup cream
1. Preheat oven to 450F. Put duck breasts, skin sides down, on a cutting board. Using a sharp knife and following shape of breast, trim excess fat. Score the skin, using a diagonal checkerboard pattern.
2. Pat duck dry and season with salt and pepper. Put duck, skin sides down, in skillet. Turn burner to medium and cook duck until skin renders, pouring out excess duck fat, about 7 minutes. Increase heat to high to crisp the duck skin, this should take 2 to 3 minutes. Turn duck over and place in the oven. Roast duck in the middle of oven for about 5 minutes for medium-rare (135 F on a meat thermometer). Remove duck from skillets and let duck rest, covered with aluminum foil for at least 5 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, add about 2 tablespoons duck fat to a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add shallots, mushrooms and thyme to skillet and cook over medium-high heat until beginning to crisp, about 8 minutes. Add white wine to skillet and cook, scraping up browned bits until skillet is almost completely dry. Add chicken stock until reduced by half; stir in cream. Season with salt and pepper as desired. Thinly slice duck and serve with sauce.
But what I’m learning from time spent in your kitchen is that your main question has nothing to do with searing, deep frying, or braising. It’s about food organization. Getting the stuff to come out of the oven hot, and on time.
Let’s take last night’s class as an example. I was working with a young couple to make the following menu:
Gnocchi with Tomatoes and Basil
Crispy Duck with Cremini Mushroom Pan Sauce
Artichoke Potato Gratin
Profiteroles with Chocolate Sauce
This couple was extraordinarily savvy in kitchen concepts (Food TV addicts, 'nuff said), but a little bit less comfortable with the basics of holding a knife. As a newly married set, they had kitchen equipment coming out the wazoo, so the first thing I did was clear 5 major appliances out of the kitchen, so that we’d have room to put cutting boards down. Half the equipment is now on it’s way to Goodwill, and the unopened matzo was definitely on it’s way to a local soup kitchen. An over-equipped kitchen is more of a cooking hindrance than an understocked one.
We cooked, we kvelled, and they had a lovely meal by the time I left. But the most important skill they learned was how to organize this meal for next time.
++ Make the gratin a day or two in advance. Casseroles are built for (and improved by) reheating.
++Profiteroles & chocolate sauce can be made ahead too. In fact, stuff the profiteroles with the ice cream in advance, and leave them in the freezer. Sit them in the fridge for 30 minutes before serving. Or better yet, let your guests stuff the puffs themselves!
++ Gnocchi – make the dumplings and freeze for up to 1 month before serving. I prefer freezing them cut and uncooked; simply drop the frozen guys into pasta water and continue the recipe as described.
++ Make the duck that day. This should take no longer than 1 hour.
Although the format of my 2 1/2 hour cooking classes are an efficient way to learn, they make absolutely no sense if you want to have a dinner party. Like they say about family life: if mama’s happy, everyone’s happy. When the host is calm and satisfied, your guests will be too.
The best way to ensure a happy host is to make dinner about reheating with a little bit of day-of cooking. Never attempt to blitz cook a dinner party, that’s a one-way path to frustration (and sweaty ickyness; trust me, far better to shower, makeup and have a glass of wine before guests arrive).
Crispy Seared Duck Breast with Mushroom-Thyme Sauce
Serves 4
2 (1-pound) boneless duck breasts with skin (preferably Long Island, or Pekin)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 small shallot, chopped
1 8-ounce container cremini mushrooms, sliced
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves, plus sprigs for garnish
1/3 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup good-quality low-sodium chicken stock
1/4 cup cream
1. Preheat oven to 450F. Put duck breasts, skin sides down, on a cutting board. Using a sharp knife and following shape of breast, trim excess fat. Score the skin, using a diagonal checkerboard pattern.
2. Pat duck dry and season with salt and pepper. Put duck, skin sides down, in skillet. Turn burner to medium and cook duck until skin renders, pouring out excess duck fat, about 7 minutes. Increase heat to high to crisp the duck skin, this should take 2 to 3 minutes. Turn duck over and place in the oven. Roast duck in the middle of oven for about 5 minutes for medium-rare (135 F on a meat thermometer). Remove duck from skillets and let duck rest, covered with aluminum foil for at least 5 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, add about 2 tablespoons duck fat to a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add shallots, mushrooms and thyme to skillet and cook over medium-high heat until beginning to crisp, about 8 minutes. Add white wine to skillet and cook, scraping up browned bits until skillet is almost completely dry. Add chicken stock until reduced by half; stir in cream. Season with salt and pepper as desired. Thinly slice duck and serve with sauce.
posted by Allison Fishman Task at 11:12 AM
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